Shaniwarwada Fort – Scary Folklore Tales

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Shaniwarwada Fort, Pune
Shaniwarwada Fort, Pune
Reading Time: 4 minutes

Shaniwarwada Fort – History in the heart of Pune

Peshwa’s Seat during 18th Century Maratha Power

You rarely come across a monumental historical residence like Shaniwarwada Fort, where even the bare bone structures have a tale to tell. For nearly a century, the stories of residents here had all the ingredients of a crime thriller, yet the populace held this place as a symbol of the Maratha pride. I am at the Shaniwarwada Fort, in Pune, the seat of the powerful Maratha Peshwas, right from its rising in 1732 till ceding control to the British in 1818.

At the zenith of Maratha power, the 9 Buruj (bastions) and 5 Darwaza (gates) Shaniwarwada Fort had an iconic seven-storeyed structure to form residences and the offices of the royal families, officials, and their attendants. Indeed, during the latter half of the 18th century, more than a thousand people lived in the fort, as also elephants and horses. Catering to all living here, I perceive the fort had an excellent water and resources supply system.

Fort an Example of Journey from Glory to Dust 

Shaniwarwada Fort served as a shining example of making the best use of natural resources, from within the region. The residential complex got constructed with teakwood from the jungles of Junnar, stone from the quarries of Chinchwad, and lime from the belts at Jejuri.

However, while the uncontrolled fire in 1828 destroyed almost the entire fort, the carelessness in preserving the remains destroyed whatever got left of it. As a net result, what you get to see are the stone wall fort precincts and lifeless foundation stones to imagine a glorious past. The gardens laid out on the ruins are a window dressing for history seekers today.

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The Old World Charm Surrounding the Fort

Shaniwarwada Fort surrounded on all four sides by narrow roads that get busy as the day wears with traffic. A large number of hand carts and small shops dot the landscape around the place. Indeed, there is some old-world charm despite the modern-day developments all around. I can say that’s like a breath of fresh air.

Once inside the holding area of the Shaniwarwada fort, through the Delhi Darwaza, the main gate, I held myself back a wee bit longer in the shade to soak in the cool breeze that blew across. That was a smart move, as there is little cover while you walk around the quadrangle gardens of 6.25 acres.

Visible Fort Art and Architecture at the Entrance

Breathing in the pungent smell of the limestone painted walls, and of the aging teak wood doors and ceiling panels, my attention fell on the fading Ganesh and Garud murals, on the pale cream large walls inside Delhi Darwaza, the main entrance of the Shaniwarwada Fort. The ambitions to capture power at Delhi drove the idea of having the fort entrance facing north. The massive teak wood gates with a 9×8 grid of long sharp steel spikes and imposing stone walls gave me a sense of reliving a slice of history.

Nagarkhana the Soul of Shaniwarwada Fort

Running up a flight of steep steps within the Delhi Darwaza structure, I get to this second-floor large hall, called the Nagarkhana, carpeted with white tiles, lined with well-shaped teak wood pillars and wooden panel ceiling. With folk music played here in the evenings during the Peshwa times, I discover, Nagarkhana served as the soul of Shaniwarwada. Forming the balcony of the Nagarkhana, overlooking the Mula-Mutha river, are the Jharokas, evoking a striking similarity to a Rajasthani edifice.

Main Fort Architecture is Left to Imagination

But does the woodwork that we see today in Nagarkhana represent the bedrock of their architecture? The nearby Nana Wada offers some clues of similarity. This architectural similarity left me pondering over questions of what if Nagarkhana hadn’t survived? We would have lost every little chance to have a speculative image of Shaniwarwada Fort.

It is from here that I got the best seat to view the stunning green gardens of the quadrangular Shaniwarwada complex. The decrepit foundation stones feebly convey a bygone era, but what I notice are the wooden fort gates that speak louder.

Also Read: Kanchipuram – Carved in Stone and Woven in Silk

Mastani’s Life is a Trial by Fire

The Mastani gate to the left of the Darwaza symbolizes the divisive politics inside Shaniwarwada. Trouble started in 1732 when Mastani came home as BajiRao Peshwa’s consort from Bundelkhand. I believe caste and religious systems prevented her from being accepted in the fort.

This smaller side gate that we now know as the Mastani gate got constructed to drive home Mastani’s segregation from mainstream life. The foundation stones that I see on the northeastern end of Shaniwarwada Fort represent the quarters where she led a life of trial by fire, much vilified as an outcast.

Left without a choice, Mastani moved out of Shaniwarwada in 1734 to Mastani Mahal in Kothrud, Pune. With a compulsion to hold the fraternity together, I sense Baji Rao didn’t realize the idea called Shaniwarwada that he so hopefully conceived.

Murderous Dark Night at Shaniwarwada Fort

However a turmoil, smeared in blood, 40 years later, painted the Mastani episode in a pale shade. At the far end of fort precincts, the Narayan gate reminds me of the gruesome horror on the full moon night of 30th August 1773, the last day of the Ganpati festival.

I could visualize the Peshwa Narayan Rao, being chased all over Shaniwarwada by a murderous Gardi gang at the instance of his uncle Raghunath Rao, get hacked down mercilessly, chopped into pieces, put in earthen pots, and taken out through this gate surreptitiously.

Legend has it that on full moon nights, people living near Shaniwarwada talk of hearing the chilling cry “kakaa mala vachwaa” (uncle save me), Narayan Rao’s last words. The ghost of Shaniwarwada Fort lives on.

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10 COMMENTS

  1. Kumar,
    Excellent !!! Very crisp and to the point. Being staying in Pune and knowing the history, I really enjoyed and felt that I am inside the fort witnessing those moments. You made that impact.
    You are always keeping climax in you your writing.
    Awaiting your next one.
    All the best.
    Regards,
    Ravindra

  2. Very well captured, Kumar. The problem for us while visiting historical places today is that we get only a fleeting glimpse of the momentous past. Visions of throbbing life stay with us only for the initial nano seconds, a loud stony silence engulfs us thereafter; accentuating death, destruction and despondency. From glory to ignominy, the path has been strewn with gory details of deceits, excesses and mean maneuverings.

    Your Shaniwarwada account cement my views. Tragic. Because, if history is sought to be dismissed so didainfully, there is no life – even in memory – after death. The past or future will soon be events related to recent past or future.

    Superbly written. Keep travelling, writing, sharing!

  3. TP the way you have illustrated the story of Shaniwarwada, I literally felt like I was a part of a guided tour within the fort. Having been to Pune umpteen times, never bothered to visit this place. Thanks to your article, will definitely pay this fort a visit.

  4. Intriguing writing. Succinct detailing, leaving behind a lot of curiosity within me, the reader. My next destination has been finalized – thanks to this article. How much time can be spent there? How about food? Any hints on planning the trip will be helpful. Thank you for this and looking forward to the next one.
    Rgds
    Raghu

  5. Chilling, thrilling, compelling. I could actually smell history as I was reading and could visualise myself being there.
    Wonderful way of expression Kumar.
    Way to go !

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